3D printed AIRPLANE – Messerschmitt Bf 109 || PART 1 – Tuning print settings


3Dlabprints 3d printed rc airplanes are a
piece of art, there is not much more to say. I have been flying RC airplanes for the last
twenty years, so I really wanted to get one of the 3D printed planes for myself. This is the first video of a video series
in which I’ll show you how I properly made one of these planes. In this video I’ll show you how I figured
out the optimal print settings to get one of these beauties in the air. Guten Tag everybody, I’m Stefan and welcome
to CNC Kitchen. I had my first RC plane almost 20 years ago
but never flew much since, as a small kid, I was always afraid to crash it and put that
hobby aside for many years. Around 10 years ago I got back into the hobby
with my Easystar, started doing FPV and also built quad and tricopters. So quite a while ago I saw pictures of the
Czech 3DLabPrint planes that are printable on most home desktop printer but never managed
to make one, even after the Spitfire model was available for free for everyone who bought
an original Prusa i3 MK2. So this winter I thought it would be the time
to finally print one for myself and I contacted the guys from 3Dlabprint if they would provide
the files for this video series which they kindly did. They have a whole range of different planes
for sale, from trainers to WWII models to EDF jets. The 3D models they sell are not just simple
copies of the outer shell of these planes. They developed a modeling technique which
makes all the parts printable as very thin and leightweight structures that don’t need
any supports. The planes are separated into several pieces
that are later glued together and equipped with the electronics. If you print the plane in a clear plastic
the internal rib structure becomes visible which shows the art and craftsmanship that
was used to create these models. So even if you are a no RC pilot but love
airplanes and lightweight structures I’d highly recommend taking a look at their models! The smaller models like the Spitfire and the
Messerschmitt already start at $20. I’ll be printing their model of the Messerschmitt
Bf 109 because so many printed already the Spitfire, so why not print a good old German
plane? Before I start printing the plane itself I
did a lot of tests on finding the optimal extrusion factor, nozzle temperature and fan
setting which I approached with dozens of these specifically designed test specimens. In the next video I’ll then be testing different
gluing techniques and finally we’ll print the parts, assemble everything and get the
Messerschmitt up into the air. I’ll be printing all of the parts on my
currently still unmodified CR-10s. I would have preferred my Prusa just because
of print quality and reliability but I thought that these Bowden style printers became so
common these days that more people might be benefitting if I tune the settings for this
printer. I also will be using the latest version of
CURA for my build and not Simplify3D, because CURA is free so everybody will have access
to it and you don’t have to spend another $150 for that piece of software. I have chosen Formfuturas transparent Premium
PLA for the print not only because my Dutch friends have sponsored a roll but it also
showed the highest strength of PLAs I’ve tested so far during my filament tests. It is not the most ductile material so crashing
it might end in tears, but it is very stiff and has good interlayer strength. I have decided not to go with PETG because
the strength of it is smaller and much more importantly the tensile modulus is around
30% lower than the one of PLA, which means that at the same wall thickness it is 30%
less stiff. Polycarbonate would also have been an option
due to its impact strength but first it’s way more expensive and second the CR-10 would
not be able to print it without modifications. For the test I designed a special tensile
test specimen, that is printable with only a single outline and is reinforced at the
end to prevent it from crushing when I clamp it in my test machine. This should be a nice representation of the
structure we’ll print later. I used atomic green Premium PLA for all the
tests because I didn’t want to use up all my transparent material and I assume the results
should be pretty much the same. Two key printing parameters the manual mentions,
that need to be tuned are nozzle temperature and extrusion multiplier. With higher temperature, layers usually fuse
together better and extrusion multiplier tunes the amount of material that is pushed out
of the nozzle during printing. Higher values lead to thicker walls but usually
also better adhesion between the layers. Due to my previous experience I started with
a nozzle temperature of 200°C and increased it in 15°C steps up to 245°C. For each temperature I printed two samples
at 100%, 105% and 110% flow, weight them and then ripped them all apart. When we take a look at the results, we can
nicely see that with increasing flow we get more strength and also higher temperatures
lead to higher strength up to the point, where at 245°C we have a huge drop of the properties
again. If we also consider the weight of the samples
it gets even more interesting, because we see that with the same extrusion multiplier
more material gets extruded at higher temperatures. So, if we take a look at the strength per
weight the mass of our parts increases disproportionally in comparison to the strength so a factor
of 105% seems to be the optimum. Since the difference between 215°C and 230°C
is not that high I will probably later decide which temperature to choose depending on the
print quality. Another interesting point I investigated is
part cooling. 3DLabPrint recommends not to use a fan for
the parts to increase strength but I wanted to find out how high the effect really is
on my CR-10. Therefore, I printed another set of test samples
at 230°C, 105% flow and fan settings of 0, 33, 66 and 100%. The results might be a little counterintuitive
at first, because full fan and no fan at all show the lowest average strength values. With both settings I had one outlier, which
lowered the average quite a bit. This outlier might result from printing errors
due to insufficient or too much cooling or is just general scatter of the results. In my opinion the results are pretty constant
so the influence of cooling is small at least for my CR-10S, because first the cooling fan
and nozzle are pretty bad and secondly the heatsink cooling fan also blows quite a bit
on the heater block and the part. Also the layer times are pretty long so the
previous layer is probably cooled down regardless of a cooling fan. If you have another cooling setup I’d still
not go for full cooling because the influence might be detrimental, so maybe print some
sample parts at different settings and choose the lowest fan setting that still delivers
a good part quality. So I also printed a couple of wing tips with
and without fan at 215 and 230°C and even though the difference is small, stringing
is reduced with lower temperature and 50% cooling fan. What do you think, should I go with the better
print quality but maybe slightly reduced strength or should I aim for maximum strength regardless
of the quality? I guess we have figured out general print
settings quite well. 105% flow and print temperatures between 215°C
and 230°C give really good results. I might try to optimize things like retraction,
wipe, coasting and so on in one of the next parts since I have noticed quite sever blobs
at all end points during printing and there are some visible holes in the outer shell. In the next video I want to investigate different
methods of glueing the parts together. 3Dlabprint recommends CA glue, but do we get
better results with expensive superglue or might even be 2 part epoxy a better choice. How about solvent gluing PLA with acetone? If you have any suggestions or experiences
then please let me know in the comments and I’ll try to include them. Winter is probably over and I really want
to finish this project during spring so the next parts will be out in the next couple
of weeks. If you enjoyed the video and liked my approach
then please leave a thumbs up, it really makes a difference. Subscribe if you want to see more of this
in the future and consider becoming a Patreon. If you would like to buy a CR-10 then take
a look at the discounted links in the description to help me run this channel. Thanks for watching, auf wiedersehen and I’ll
see you next time.

73 Replies to “3D printed AIRPLANE – Messerschmitt Bf 109 || PART 1 – Tuning print settings”

  1. Спасибо. Ваши видео исключительно информативны.

  2. Hi CNC
    It's an exciting project you're up to. I am even a flight enthusiast.
    I will follow your problem solutions with excitement 🙂

  3. Pretty cool, though i've gotta say i despise that wing design, not absolutely everything has to be 3d printed! Just print only the ribs and use carbon fiber rods for the spars and cover it all with some vinyl or something.

  4. I would go for the best print quality and spray paint a laquer on it after to improve strength. You could even anneal the pieces in the oven after to get even better strength.

  5. I think you'll see a lot of shear stress in planes like this, does your testing account for shear? Your orientation might also wanna account for shear as well.

  6. I would definitely print it in poly carbonate or similar so you can acetone weld and is very crash resistant, pla is probable the least suited material because it also plasticity deforms under constant strain and is super susceptible to shattering on a crash, and you cannot acetone weld.

  7. I would go to the good print quality, because If you crash, it'ill die in every strength. (Also wenn du abstürzt, dann geht es sowieso kaputt…)

  8. S#!% electronics -> do this ->
    M303 E0 S245 C8

    then save values with command or correct them in FW

    also instead of optimizing retraction, combining, wipe and cousting -> use Linear Advance (turn off wipe, combining and cousting, reduce retraction lenght)

  9. I have heard about Tangit (Henkel dedicated PVC glue). The recommendation came from an plastic engineer. I already used it successfully to glue ABS against PVC-U.

  10. I wouldn’t worry to much about getting the maximum strength as the only time the plane will be subjected to loads which could result in failure will be during a crash, in which case it’s probably going to break regardless. Go print quality.

  11. I really enjoy and appreciate your scientific and methodical approach to problem solving. Looking forward to the rest of this series.

  12. The amount of armchair experts who feel left out and desperately need to correct his decisions in the comments hahahhaha Why aren't you posting your own scientific approached expert videos, instead of whining about his choices? "Woulda coulda shoulda Trolls" lol

    Nice work CNC Kitchen

  13. I just printed a 3DLabPrint Zivko Edge. Very impressive model. Printed it on a MK3 and all together it took me about 40 hours of print time. They even included Simplify3D factory files for a Prusa MK2, that all together gave good hints on what settings to use with the MK3. So all in all I am pretty happy with that bird. Thumps up for 3DLabPrint for their work.

  14. Have not personally had much luck with gluing PLA with acetone but I've heard ethyl acetate works better. Would be interested in seeing a comparison.

  15. i printed the Spitfire on my Prusa MK2 using the recommended settings and glued it using a cheap super glue which i bought at 1$ for a 10ml bottle (Kind of Fevi Kwik). It worked quite well and even after the crash the parts didn't break from the joint but layer lines and other parts!!
    Worked great but crashed it cause i didn't know how to fly a RC Plane and it was my first time!

  16. I've printed three of these, two for flying and one painted model. Used a Anet A2, but my mk3 is on the way and can't wait to try it on that. I used ca glue with activator, it worked great.

  17. I have not experience on glueing PLA, but have large experience on building RC planes and other staff.
    The strongest for sure is the epoxy. Recommendations:
    – Use a quick one if you do not want to wait very long curing times. (15 – 30 min. will be ok, 5 min. ones are usually too quick)
    – Slow ones >1h curing time produce stronger bondings.
    – If you are not careful you can increase the weight of the plane too much when using epoxies, so I recommend that you get a light weight one specially for airplanes, if you can not find it you can mix with microballons.
    I think that as suggested by 3DLabPrints the best option for this project may be cyanoacrylate, recommendations:
    – There is BIG difference on quality depending on brands, I have get the best results with BSI brand ( http://www.bsi-inc.com ).
    – There is different kind of CA viscosity, I think for this project medium viscosity and high viscosity will be the ones to choose.
    – Get as well a CA accelerator, it makes the CA to cure faster and improves the strength of the joints.

    Hope it helps
    BTW Great project.

  18. Hi
    I have Tevo Tornado
    I put glass because the bed bubbles
    The glass printed good but now all my prints don’t stick and come apart!
    What am I doing wrong?

  19. It makes sense that you need higher extrution rates, because the CR-10 is known for under extruding. Try measure the length of filament used, and you will understand my clame. So higher temperatur makes it easier for the extruder motor to run. I upgraded my printer with this setup, and got correct extrution lengths. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1078763

  20. Great video…………. is it not better for strength to print all parts at a 60 to 70 degree angle with supports only from the build platform only for better strength? any parts I need strong I always print that way

  21. Nice thing you started this serie now, I just ordered the files myself and will be making a BF109 F4.
    I just need to wait for the new hot end of my printer to get here.

  22. For glue – there are many specialised glues for different plastics. great start is to look at forums for Revell (and similar) models. Those glues for the right material are really pretty much the best you can get.

  23. You're going to have one hell of a time getting these files to work with Cura… They're only surfaces, not solid bodies.

  24. What's the smallest printer you can get this model to print on ie what are the measurements of the largest parts. I've been wanting to do one of these but don't wanna fork out 20 ish bucks on a model I can't print

  25. One thing you might want to consider when using CA glue is to get the rubber ice stuff I'm not sure if it's available in clear it might only be available in Black but because it's got rubber mixed in with it it's not quite as brittle a normal CA it has a tiny bit of give you can't feel the give but you'll notice it on impact it doesn't break as easily

  26. CA glue would be better but that's only because part my showerhead design failed when I used epoxy, I still don't fully understand why, but the CA glue has held up for 12months so far. I'd also consider looking at using Poly Cement.

  27. Thank you for using a CR-10S! I'd love to be able to pick up a genuine Prusa i3 MK3 down the road, but for now I have what I have and I'm very happy that I can follow some of your tips when doing this project latter.

  28. Once again, I love your approach! I look forward to watching the detailed process of selecting temperatures, fan settings, etc.

  29. Why do you copy GreatScott! 's sign-off at the end of your video's? You couldn't come up with something original? It's identical.

  30. Awesome stuff 🙂 I’d be curious to see wing structures and center of gravity. I’ve lost a skywalker about 10years algo, due to a broken wing. Would this happen to the 109? 🙂

  31. Hi Stefan! Your videos are great!
    For the extrusion multiplier you can allways mark a predefined length from your print head on the filament and then extrude the same length via prontrrface or a similar programm. After that meassure again and divide predefined value with given value -> extrusion multiplier.

  32. You should consider getting one of the improved fan shroud models off thingiverse. Its a very common upgrade and you may see some major improvements.

  33. For any other MK2 owners who were surprised to hear they had a free plane: The g-code and instructions are included with the 1.7.5 driver.

  34. Your videography is always top notch! Great build I'm excited to see the results, like you I fly quads. I would think aerodynamics stopping air infiltration would be paramount, if it crashes it's done for no matter what!

  35. If you could do a video on wiping and coasting, that would be so useful, I'm so tired of blobs and holes from retractions and layer changes! 😀

  36. Thanks this reinforces my decision to by the Creality CR-10s printer..for the settings you have worked out for printing RC planes etc in Cura……Laurie

  37. Good day! Our Children's home has created a training club for the development of PC modeling asks you, if you can, STL files send us an e-mail. The children will be grateful. [email protected]

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  39. Hello Stephan. Thanks for this great video. I bought the P-38 last year, however I haven't printed it yet because my printer is not optimized yet and I question just how good is CA glue on PLA. I am thankful for your videos!

  40. Nice i too got an Multiplex Easy Star that i bought for learning how to fly. Do you have also made any mods on your Easy Star?

  41. Can someone please provide cura 3,4,1 settings, I've spent three days and a kg of filament trying to reduce stringing with no improvement

  42. Anybody else having bed adhesion when printing wings? On my prusa mk3s and the PEI bed, getting warping on only the wing section

  43. I just want to say thank you for helping me solve my ME109 slicing issue in Cura, as it would not render/slice the internal geometry leaving it looking more like "Spiralize outer contour". Keep up the good work by producing more good value content.

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